Category Archives: Techniques

Ways we do things to get those waves pumping!

Jon Snow Wavy Hair Cocktail Tutorial

Long time no see, Wavies! I have a new tutorial I had to tell you all about in case it works for you too. I was reading an article in Esquire Magazine in which Kevin Alexander (<— Read it!) the hair guru on Game of Thrones described what he did to Kit Harington's hair for Jon Snow (and I suspect most of the men on there). I had a couple of products I thought might fit the bill so I decided to experiment. I've been extremely happy with this as a refresh routine lately. I haven't tried it on fresh hair so I don't know how well it would work that way, but as a refresh it's been awesome. I've used it anywhere from day 2 to the rare day 4 hair. This works. It holds up in high dew, high humidity (I suspect it is the pomade helping there). It's soft and feels natural and very flexible.

I'm using Oribe Rough Luxury Soft Molding Paste and Innersense Organic Beauty InnerPeace Whipped Texturizing Creme. Use very little as you can always add more. You must spritz first with water which keeps it from being crunchy. So sit back and watch the video and see if this is something you would like to try!

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Wavy Nation: A 2nd Refresh with Briogeo and Camille Rose!

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Hello Nation! So many people wonder about 2nd refresh routines. There are many ways to handle second day hair but this is the type of thing I most often do.  I like it because I can get close to Day 1 results in about a quarter of the time. Now, of course, when time is a real premium (like I have hit snooze one too many times), I’ll just try fixing what The Pineapple has delivered, which for me then means a fairly “beachy”look. All well and good, but sometimes we would like a more completed routine look, right? So this video is for you!

The products used here are probably my favorite combo. Briogeo Curl Charisma Leave In Cream, which I purchased with points from Birchbox, but you can find other online locations too. And Camille Rose Naturals Curl Maker, which I adore!!!  You can find it at any Target that carries Camille Rose or Target.com, Camille Rose’s site or CurlMart.com.  Look for those shipping sales and give it a try.

Please comment here and on the video, share if you know anyone who would like it. And feel completely free as usual to offer your own tips and tricks!!!  What works for one person doesn’t always work for another. As I like to say, it’s always great to have more tools in your arsenal!

Next week, we have an interview with a fantastic wavy/curly who has done a tremendous job of transitioning to the Curly Girl method and has some great videos and tips for you! Stay tuned!

Clipping for Volume

Nation, we wavies often have trouble get root volume. Some of us have trouble getting volume everywhere but especially the roots. Even very wavy hair may poof out, but doesn’t poof up.

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One of the best tools you can use are clips. Clipping your crown before it dries can shape it the way you need to help frame your face.

You’ll probably need to experiment with the clips that are right for you, but everyone generally at least has some jaw clamps around and that is a good place to start. In general, think of your hair as “moldable” and push and clip it into the general shape you want to end up with.

You can see in these  examples how I have pushed each clump and clipped it so the general shape is going to be a lot fuller looking than my hair would be without letting it dry without the clips. It also holds the clumps out which assists with drying clear to the scalp.

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Shaping with clips.
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Clips hold hair out for shaping and lifting clumps for better drying.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have to clip in a very exaggerated way because my hair will de-puff quite dramatically through the day because of my weakness of wave. But it will always retain more volume than if I hadn’t clipped at all.

Here I clipped in a very exaggerated way.

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Exaggerated Clipping

Then, sometimes, I notice it’s still a little flatter along the part than I like.  You can do a couple of different things. Once you have taken out your clips and see that you want some lift right along the part you can take a long duckbill clip like this.Lift and pinch the clumps along your part together and slide it in along the part. This has a slightly Pebbles look, but it works!

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Or you can use a medium jaw clamp and just lift the area you want raised and clip it.

Basically you can kind of mold your crown clumps in a way that at least pushes them into a shape that is more framing.

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There are a few videos on YouTube if you look up clipping. I encourage people to watch them all. You never know when you will see something that works for you. Here is the detailed video I made, where I show you several kinds of clips you can use.

So don’t be afraid to clip! Experiment! You’ll find something that works for you.

Scrunch out the Crunch: Frizz reducing alternative

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Nation, do you ever go to scrunch out your clumps and everything comes apart?  All your great looking waves that you know are waiting just fall apart? Or are you a frizz prone wavy or curly and scrunching out crunch creates frizz so you stay away from the crunchy products that will actually set your waves and curls better?

Then here is an alternative way to SOTC (Scrunch Out the Crunch) method for you. Over on the Wavy Hair Community Wendy, from the Science-y Hairblog and the fabulous Etsy hair analysis shop GoosefootPrints, presented us with an idea that I, at least, have seen no where else. It’s called rope scrunching. I made a short video to introduce you to it.  It really does help SOTC without destroying clumps and curls and might be a great thing for you to add to your arsenal of hair techniques.

Take sections of your crunchy hair and without pulling on it, twist the section, kind of pressing as you go. The crunch will come out, but it won’t be going against the clump like bottom scrunching does. Here is a little video demonstrating it!

Isn’t that brilliant?

Edit: Wendy pointed me at this Ouidad video where they show twist/rope type scrunching. Still brilliant and I’m leaving my plugs in.

Short Diffuser Tip

Hola! Wavy Nation, I realized I have added a new little technique to my diffusing. I tend to think of my hair as something I am sculpting. I’m not as good as my friend Wendy over at Science-y Hair Blog at molding waves, but I do think of hair as something you can manipulate. I realized the other day when diffusing that after a first go through in setting waves, I then begin to section my hair so that, whether using a regular bowl or the Deva hand defuser, I can get up close to the scalp and get that area the same 80% or so as dry as my length. I think that helps prevent pull out. Curlies, with stronger patterns and lighter, finer hair don’t have that issue, but we wavies kind of fight a battle between a ration of of water to wave. You need the water for the pattern to appear but once you have put in your products, it’s a timing tightrope you tread in getting hair to dry evenly so that the wave doesn’t pull out. Products matter but so does technique. I think this helps and I hope you find this little video helpful.

Also, I pointed out my little spot on my face that they shaved off to test. It was indeed basal cell carcinoma. If you think that little spot stands out, check it out now that they excised it. WEAR YOU SUNSCREEN. If you have kids make them wear sunscreen. We get something like 85% of our lifetime sun exposure by the time we are 18. I know it will heal but it’s no fun feeling like Frankenstein.

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Wavy Nation Citizen Interview #1!

Hello, Nation! From time to time I will ask wavies to tell us a bit about embracing the wave, their tips, and assundry wisdom from their experiences.

THollyNeedsavacationoday we have a Wavy Nation Citizen Holly Needsavacation with us to share her wavy journey and a fantastic video on refreshing hair.

Holly has had an amazing journey with hair that was brutally damaged by a keratin treatment. You’d never know it now. Her adherence to the Curly Girl methods has grown out her tresses to some amazing waves. See Holly’s interview after the video. You won’t want to miss it!

WN: How long have you been “embracing wave”?

About 3 years now

WN: Tell us a little about what have been the most successful changes for you.

HN: Not flat ironing or blowdrying with a brush really helped my hair heal.

Using a diffuser and scrunching in my products helped what wave I do have stay longer.

An understanding of what the ingredients in my products DO for my hair has helped me understand what can be improved and work better or what to avoid.

WN: Do you find you need to change your “product wardrobe” through out the year?

HN: I don’t know if it’s a seasonal thing, or I just am a true product junkie. I like my hair most days but I cannot resist when I see a new product or there’s a stellar recommendation on a certain product, I immediately need to try that product then too!

WN: What are some of your “HG” products?

HN: Allissa Ponders FSG!!!! (WN note: That would be Sweet Curls Elixir products on Etsy!)  Sealing with jojoba oil, Herbal Essences Set me up Gel, Salon Grafix volume hair spray.

WN: What do you think are the most successful techniques to use for your hair?

HN: Squish to condish (WN: This is a technique from Melissa Stites  “There Once was a Curl” blog, entry Squish to Condish ) really moisturizes my hair, oil sealing to prevent frizz, clipping for volume.

WN: What is the most surprising thing you have learned about your hair since embracing the wave?

HN: My hair is as moody as I am. It looks THE BEST and biggest right after a good hard run- but the rest of me then needs a shower!

WN: For anyone new, what tip would you most like to share?

HN: It is hard when you want gorgeous voluminous waves and you are new and unsure what to do. It can be overwhelming, but I assure you, make it your hobby, have a creative mind and budget and explore the hair world and what works for you!

WN: Is there anything else you’d like to share with The Wavy Nation?

HN: Your hair is as unique as you, no one product or routine will work for all of us- and don’t dare to do different!

 

thank you

Thank you, Holly for sharing with us your tips and doing that fantastic video! Let’s give Holly a hand, everybody!!

De-mystifying the Diffuser

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Nation, I see many posts on Naturally Curly asking about diffusing. I remember being totally intimidated by what looks like a torture tool from some 50s hair salon. Since then I have come to view it as a wavy’s SO. Many of us simply can’t live without one. This is a Wavy Nation Public Service Announcement!

Diffusing is a Wavy god send. Besides allowing you to leave the house in the dead of winter without freezing our head off, it can cut drying time by huge chunks and, for 2as like me, you just can’t get much boing without one. That’s OK for some looks but when you want the most of your wave, it’s a time battle between water weight dragging out your waves and getting that gel cast to set.

You see, products kind of act on a wavy like a “set”, only instead of a curler, the product holds the clumps together and reinforces the wave crest. If your pattern is strong enough (you have a LOT of boing in  your wave – usually shorter wave crests) that wave is going to hold to some extent without pulling out before the strands/clumps dry. You can air dry with equal ease if you wish. You may still get more boing for your buck (see what I did there?) with a diffuser, but that is just a perk.

I use two kinds of diffuser. I have both a bowl diffuser (modeled by my beautiful boy, Sage):

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and a Devafuser “Hand”.

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I think some may find that odd, but how many people do you know who have different kinds of curling irons? We use more than one product (usually). There is nothing wrong with more tools in your toolbox where diffusers are concerned either.

Like everything about hair, diffusing is going to take some experimentation. There are many videos on diffusing to be found on YouTube and they are great. I even made one!

Probably the single most effective technique some beautiful person invented is pixie diffusing. That is where, with your dryer off, you place a section of hair in the bowl (often while upside down or leaning side to side, depending on if you need some volume up top at the crown) and turn the diffuser on, letting the section sit in the bowl without moving the dryer for X amount of time (I like to do about 30 second chunks of time), then turning off the dryer and moving it to a new section. It sounds laborious but you will love it because it keeps your clumps from pulling apart and for the frizz prone, cuts down on frizztastrophes. Or even just frizz squalls.

How long you diffuse is entirely up to you. In general, try to go no longer than having your hair get to 80% dry or then even pixie diffusing will not save you from blowing your clumps apart. You want to air dry the last bit of the way before scrunching out any crunch also to be seen from here forward in this blog as “SOTC”.

Over time, I’ve gotten to the point where I can usually leave the house with my hair at 90% dry and I do not look like some Jean-Paul Gaultier statement. I can SOTC when I get to work. I can also (as I am doing as we speak) turn a fan on low, place it some feet away and let that help get a little more “diffuse” power to help the last bit dry (My thanks to the ladies on Wavy Hair Community for bringing this up some months ago!)

Plopping (piling your hair in a flour sack, t-shirt or micro fiber towel and tying it up) before you diffuse will also help a bit with dry time.

I have seen some folks use those flat diffusers with fingers but I can’t get that to work for all the tea in China. I think they are either more useful for certain effects for wavies or better suited to much curlier tresses.

There is a dryer out there that looks something like a lolly pop that I have seen but don’t know how effective it is. I really like the bowl effect for maximum wave. Some people use a sock diffuser when traveling or a folding diffuser. I love the Deva Hand for some finishing work and getting some extra volume at the root.

To recap:

1) Anyone can try diffusing

2) Pixie diffusing is the best technique to avoid frizz

3) Only diffuse to about 80% dry

4) For hair health, use low heat/low speed settings

5) Bowl diffusers will encourage more wave

6) Deva Hand diffusers can be useful for a different effect or finishing off

I would love to see your comments and tips in the comments! Until next time, keep riding the wave!